The National Parks of Western North America (and Hawai’i) – Volcanos National Park

Smoldering crater on Mauna LoaWe had the pleasure of visiting Volcanoes National Park again this year while vacationing on the Big Island of Hawaii.  It was just as much fun this time as it was the first time we visited there. The park is located south of Hilo off Highway 11 between mile markers 70 and 71. The entrance station provides immediate access to the Kilauea Visitor’s Center, which is next to the Kilauea Caldera. Entrance fees to the park are $10 per vehicle and they honor all of the National Park passes.  There are also six days each year designated as free for cultural events and certain holidays. The Visitor’s Center, open daily from 7:45 am to 5 pm, is where you’ll find displays, valuable planning information, and an interesting 25 minute video about the geology and biology of the park making this a must first stop. Information is also available on the park website at www.nps.gov/havo or by calling (808) 985-6000. The park also has a Facebook page, which lists general information and has several short video presentations on cultural topics such as their annual hula festival, after dark scenes of the volcano, and other interesting topics. The park is open year round, 24 hours a day, except when emergencies occur such as eruptions, sulfur dioxide gas buildup, or this year’s Tropical Storm Flossie, then some areas may be temporarily closed.

There are two developed drive-in campgrounds in the park that are free to the public on a first come first served basis.  Backpacking permits are also available. As with all National Parks no dogs are allowed on trails. Bicycles are only allowed on roads and designated paths.  Lodging is available within the park at Volcano House located near the visitor’s center.  You can check it out on the web at www.volcanohouse.com. There are also several vacation rentals and bed-and-breakfast establishments just outside of the park, and two small village stores in nearby Volcano Village.

The Hawaiian Archipelago was built by the eruption of 15 volcanos, five of which form the Big Island of Hawaii. The dormant Mauna Kea (meaning ‘white mountain’) is the tallest volcano on our planet, rising over 33,000 feet from the sea bed. That’s higher than Mount Everest. Mauna Loa (meaning ‘long mountain’) is an active volcano, lying to the south of Mauna Kea and covering half of the Big Island’s ground surface area — and it’s still growing! No sign necessary for this road closure!!The most active volcano on the island is Kilauea. Areas near the Kilauea caldera have been spreading and spewing lava since 1983, adding 500 acres of new land to the island during that time span and covering over 8 miles of public highway with lava. Currently the Halema’uma’u crater inside the Kilauea caldera has been active since March 2008. Recent lava flows are entering the ocean just outside of the park’s boundary, and the best viewing area of this activity continues to be near the Jaggar Museum.

Hawaiian volcanos are unique in that they are gentler than other volcanos around the world, producing flows that are more fluid and less gassy. Still, they remain giant monuments to our earth’s origin and that’s what makes a visit to this park so interesting.

Akaka FallsThe Hawaiian Islands are also the most isolated group of islands on earth and feature a wide variety of ecosystems beginning at the ocean’s shore and reaching up to where new volcanic land masses continue to form. This varied habitat has spawned native species found nowhere else on earth.  In fact 90 percent of native Hawaiian terrestrial flora and fauna is endemic and occurs only in these islands.  That diversity includes about 25 percent of all endangered plants and birds in the United States, and surpasses even that of the Galapagos Islands. Populations of nene geese, Kamehameha butterflies, happy face spiders, Hawksbill turtles, dark-rumped petrels, carnivorous caterpillars and countless other plants and animals evolved on these isolated islands.

Lush tropical growth on the roads inside the parkBut today there is trouble in this island paradise. Many now call the Hawaiian Islands the islands of extinction. Three quarters of all documented native plant and bird extinctions in the United States are from Hawaii. Development and deforestation for agriculture have changed the face of the islands’ land masses forever.  New species of flora and fauna have been introduced at an alarming rate and many of these invasive species out-compete the natives. Volcanos National Park has established an International Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site to protect and restore native endangered flora and fauna. There is a system of trails within the park that will allow you to access interesting areas of the forest within the park. When you’re there, take a hike, you’ll find it interesting.

Kilauea warningWe did all the usual tourist things after our initial stop at the Visitor’s Center. A drive around the Kilauea Caldera with picture stops, a look at the Thurston Lava Tube, a short hike or two, and a car trip down the Chain of Craters Road to check out where the lava crossed on its way to the sea. That made up a good part of our day. On the way to the park we stopped at Akaka Falls for a short hike and a photo op that broke up the orchids for sale at the orchid gardensorchids for sale at the orchid gardenstwo hour trip from our rental on the beach. On the way back we made a ‘must do’ stop at Akatsuka Orchid Gardens , and later stopped for dinner.

What a great day! – It’s another of the wonderful National Parks we’re privileged to enjoy in this great country of ours. We hope you get the chance to spend a day like this soon yourselves. We love the Hawaiian Islands and chances are you do, too.

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Salmon and Halibut Fishing on the MV Charlotte Princess – July 2013

We had the pleasure of fishing with the Oak Bay Marine Group on the MV Charlotte Princess at Langara Island again this year, taking advantage of their two-for-the-price-of-one offer. Although we didn’t plan it that way, we ended up in the Can-Am Fishing Derby, which turned out to be a blast. We had a great time, as we always do, landing limits of Chinook and Coho salmon as well as Halibut. The winner of the derby was the USA team, a southern California resident who landed a 38-plus-pounder on the last day of the derby and delivered it to the dock with only one minute to spare. He earned the first place prize — a trip to Oak Bay’s Cape Santa Maria Beach Resort in the Bahamas.  Second and third place prizes went to the Canadian team.

We had a shot at second place when Pam hooked a Chinook that looked to be about 30 pounds and fought it for 20 minutes only to have the hook come loose just as she was leading it into the net. You’ve all had that experience, I know, but it was doubly frustrating when there was another salmon fishing trip on the line as the second place prize. Oh well, we’ll catch one next year that’s even bigger! The two-for one-deal is still running as of the date of this post, which makes this an affordable trip if you’re interested. Check out Oak Bay’s web page at http://www.obmg.com/.

The things we like about these trips include the great food (expect to gain weight) and the excellent service we’ve always enjoyed. The fact that there’s just the two of us in our own boat, which comes equipped with excellent gear and tackle, is another big plus for us. (No one can see our screw-ups that way either.) The no-limit water time is also great. We started our days at 5 am and fished until just before dinner at 8 pm, all daylight hours this time of year in British Columbia.

The fish are cleaned, vacuum packed, and flash frozen immediately after you return to the boat, keeping them fresh. One thing to note though, the fish are taken out of the freezer and boxed on the morning you leave. By the time you catch the helicopter to the Masset airport on Haida Gwaii (formerly Queen Charlotte Island), and then the prop job back to Vancouver, it’s been about 10 hours. If you’re staying at a hotel in Vancouver, have them put your fish in their freezer to stay fresh. If you’re making other traveling connections, be forewarned that things start to thaw after about 12 hours. Still, on this last trip we connected straight through to Los Angeles and then drove home on the same day/night. Our three boxes of fish were out of the freezer for 18 hours and still in reasonable shape, but I wouldn’t want to keep them out much longer.

DSC_2127smFishing on the MV Charlotte Princess trip is all motor-mooching style, and you’re equipped with three salmon rods, which can get interesting if the two of you get a double hookup. This is a fun and lazy way to fish, but if you haven’t tried it before, the dock crew will be happy to give you some on-the-water instruction time. Separate halibut rods are provided for drift fishing. You can get salmon bellies for halibut bait, but we found that the same herring you use for salmon bait actually worked better. Note! New halibut size limits went into effect this year. You can check on these online before you travel.

We hope to return again next year. This is a trip you might consider, and if you do, maybe we’ll see you on the water. We’ll be the ones in the boat with the bent rods (we hope), and we’ll have fish stories to share too.

 

(Author’s note, August 2015:  I’ve received several inquiries recently about fishing on the Charlotte Princess. I’m sad to report that the Charlotte Princess returned to dry dock after the summer 2013 season, and is no longer in operation. Oak Bay Marine Group still offers other fishing opportunities at several of their other resorts in British Columbia.  You can check their website (www.obmg.com) for information.)

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Hawai’i Tide Pool Fun

Whenever we go to the Hawaiian Islands we like to enjoy the tide pools along the lava-covered beaches of the shoreline. They represent a unique ecological area all by themselves, and they are certainly worth exploring. This blog is going to look at those pools along Puako Beach Road on the Big Island of Hawai’i, but things aren’t all that different on the other islands. The critters you’ll find, big and small, are fascinating but sometimes elusive. Here are a few tips that might help you make your adventures more fun.

It’s amazing how many types of eels live in shallow tide pools. They like to hide by day, but they come out after dark to feed. During a medium to low tide, take a flashlight and check out that pool you were wading in during the day. I can almost guarantee that you’ll be surprised.

If you don’t want to wait to see the things that go bump in the night, then a little tide pool chum always stirs up some action. The fish like bread, but the eels like meat (I use raw pork). Cut the raw meat into small fingernail-sized pieces and toss a few into the deeper end of the pool. Eels have an acute sense of smell, and after your bait has been sitting for a minute or two it will usually bring something out of its daytime retreat to feed. That’s often an eel. They’re more nervous during the day though, so stand back from the edge of the pool a couple of feet and you’ll get more action.

The same strategy I’ve just outlined works for shrimp and crabs too. There are a wide variety of these living almost exclusively in tide pools. They’ll go for your chum, too. At night they scurry around at the edge of the water foraging for food, and that’s the best time to see them. Still, during the day they’ll be happy to put on a show for food. You have to be a little sneaky though so you won’t scare them away. Smaller shrimp aren’t as skitterish, and can be found along the edge of the water almost anywhere. Pam likes to take a chair and put it in the sand bottom of an inshore lava pool and read. Tiny ghost shrimp often join her nibbling at the skin around her toes. Truly, tide pools have something for every‘body’.

You’ll find that these pools are a nursery for many small reef fish living and feeding on algae along the bottom. Most of these go after bread, but the larger ones prefer meat cut and diced into very small chunks. Or you can just stand there keeping very still and watch them — their antics can be fascinating. Take your fish book with you and see how many species you can identify.

Along Puako Road the big attraction is always the turtles. They come into tide pools to feed mainly on the algae that grow rapidly in shallow sunlit areas. You can see their round bodies moving underwater and watch when they pop their heads up for a breath of air. During low tide they often haul out on the lava to take in the heat of the sun. With a good long-range lens you can take fascinating pictures of them hanging out together. On our last trip we were surprised when a rust-colored ‘green’ turtle showed up. He must have thought I was another of his buddies and he wanted to hang with me for a while.

The thing about tide pools is that you never know what you’re going to find in the next pool. It’s a great way to spend part of your day, or evening. We love this activity, and we hope you will, too.

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